Tuesday, 4 August 2009

Designer Focus: Monique van Heist



''Monique van Heist's project:Hello Fashion is a new form of Fashion Activism. A fashion statement subverting the fashions system's vectors of power, but using its infrastructure for promoting multitudes, and transparancy of how fashion might be and what other means of expression and meanings it could manifest.''


On November 7th Dutch Designer Monique van Heist won the Mercedes-Benz Dutch Fashion Award 2008. She will receive a reward of 25000 to further develop her label ''moniquevanheist'', and to set further steps in the international fashion industry....


On Friday November 7th 2008 the Dutch Fashion Foundation organized the second edition of the Mercedes Benz Dutch Fashion Awards. This initiative to create a focus moment in the Dutch fashion industry saw its successful debut in November 2007. On November 7th 2008 an international jury once again chose the Dutch fashion design label most likely to succeed in bringing its label onto the international market. The winner of the Mercedes-Benz Dutch Fashion Award received a financial reward of 25.000 euro which will enable the label to take further steps in the international fashion industry. Last edition this award was won by the label Klavers van Engelen who used the reward to restart their label and are now among others exploring the Milanese market.

Monique van Heist also won the Media award,the Dutch Fashion Media Award is presented by leading Dutch fashion media and given to the designer that according to the Dutch Fashion Media Academy deserves an extra incentive on national soil through shown excellence in the past year. This award is made possible by Club Brillant, a collaboration of fashion conscious opticians, offering the Monique a possibility to collaborate with a renowned eyewear designer in the development of their own eyewear collection to complement her collections. She also won an incentive of 5.000 Euro to invest freely in the development of her brand....


And at last she won the Dutch Fashion Incubator Award, which is composed of substantial in-kind contributions from the industry to the realization of the ambitions of the winner of the Mercedes-Benz Dutch Fashion Award 2008. This Award extends not only to the support of the label, but as well to illustrate the value these products and channels have for the realization of the designer’s business objectives. This year introduced the generous offer of three companies in the field of software and technology, sales and production: Department store the Bijenkorf will take a part of the winning collection up in its assortment to be sold in its flagship stores in Amsterdam, The Hague and Rotterdam next year. Lectra offers the winner of the Mercedes-Benz Dutch Fashion Awards 2008 a package of and training-course of the Modaris ExpertPro and Kaledo software. These solutions will enable the winner to streamline and accelerate his or her design process and communication with production facilities. The Fair Wear Foundation offers not only to the winner but to all the nominated designers a course to get acquainted with the fair wear principles and are being brought in contact with production facilities that comply with the criteria of Fair Wear.
(source Dutch Fashion Foundation)


As the above shows, this a very innovative and clever use of the Fashion-Industry's network, enabling Monique van Heist to introduce her newest project ''Hello Fashion'' which was launched at the Bijenkorf (a dutch version of Bloomingdale's) last may 2009. 
With  ''Hello Fashion'' Monique makes a fashion statement, while at the same time offering an alternative vision on how Fashion might be....: a permanent collection of garments presented in a loose-leaf catalogue, to which new items will be added randomly..(this is: not according to the traditional fashion-cycle).


'' Designers are creating more and more collections, and i am thinking: who's going to wear all those garments'' Monique van Heist expresses in an interview. This made her reflect upon her own role and responsibility as a Fashion Designer. Her Fashion is a research into the industry's vectors of power, and the driving forces of novelty and speed, in the end resulting in unnecessary waste. Fashion starts with an analysis of what people wear, and where they wear it. Monique turns this research to her benefit as a sourceof inspiration: every day life. From sociological fashion observations into highly wearable and desirable new forms of fashion design. Clothes that relate to us on a direct day-to-day level. She is literally getting in touch with society by means of her designs....
Monique designs unisex-style collections with an own character, which are referred to her''alter ego's", 
like the underneath description of alter-ego Nastasja:

Natasja, Me.
when they leave, she fakes to be busy. or better, hide and pretend to be gone.
where they make blazers, at night IT is hers (mine).
puts on the dustcoat and:
begin.
take the freshly oiled machine. push the button, hear that beautiful snoring sound. choose material(S)
shape by head, color by heart. instinctive distinction.
the rules of fashion are no longer at night, but her rules.
create what is hers, with innocent beauty.
posing, showing off and, happiness.
she is the maker of her universe- she releases her stars!
I am then NATASJA. It fits me better.
I am ready to wear it.  what it is.
she is a sewing factory.
she stands, still in fashion.
is her taste as fashion, is fashion tasty?
she knows.

All Monique's collections have a description of the character expressed by these collections.That said, the designs are such that they leave enough room to be personalized by the wearer. Monique explores the bounderies of uniformity within her designs, to just a level that the individual is triggered in developing/expressing its own unique persona, this in dialogue with ''the other'' expressed in the collection. 


It's about the concept of dynamic interaction between people in creating identity. The'' I ''does not exist without the ''other'', within a balance we find ourselves....
( source Levinas, Sartre,Damasio and others Philosophy of Mind)

The above forms the (meta)physical and philosophical mindset out of which Hello Fashion was created. The garments that get into the Hello Fashion catalogue are called ''moniquevanheist classics''.



The catalogue can be downloaded from her website: www.moniquevanheist.com 
Her other collections,and poetic descriptions of Alter-ego's can also be viewed on her website.
Monique van Heist has graduated from Arhnem Fashion Institute in November 2004, she launched her label ''moniquevanheist'' that same year with the launch of her first collection ''toni''. In May 2009 she launched her project Hello Fashion, and she is keen on developing this project/fashion concept worldwide....
working with the fashion-industry, instead of against it: this by subverting its power-vectors but using its infrastructure...and by offering a work-able, fashionable alternative of how fashion might/could be: HELLO FASHION!


Sources: 
BOOKS
''Crafts: On Scale, Pace and Sustainability'', Li Edelkoort
''Awaking to the other'', Emmanuel Levinas
''Eco-chic the fashion paradox'' Sandy Black
''Seven days in the art-world'' Sarah Thortnon
''Fashion a Philsophy'' Lars Svendsen
Websites:
www.moniquevanheist.com
www.dutchfashionawards.com/
http://www.edelkoort.com/
http://www.premsela.org/home/-/en
http://www.arnhemmodebiennale2009.com/read/en

Final Assignment: Street trends







 How very inspiring street trends might be, i found this the hardest assignment to ''grasp''..., especially with Fashion turning into a conceptual era, the interpretation of  trends in the street have become very diverse....Still i decided to focus on the interpretation of historical trends in the contemporary fashion scene, that is collections of 2009/2010....
Differences in suits as seen on the runway are very subtle....and styling have become an important issue to express the inspiration from historical street-trends.... as following images hopefully will express...







Zoot-suit image above, expressing political dimension of wearing these suits, leading to riots, and social-commotion in big cities like LA.

Underneath,interpretation by Lanvin ss 2010 men's collection: taking the 'activist' connotation as inspiring...


And totally becoming Mainstream, losing its political, activist dimension, in a beautifully interpretation by  Chloe 2009, Fall collection:



Suits have played a literally ''power-full'' role in the history of fashion...like i described in a previuos post. Another suit-style that set a trend coming from the streets, was the Teddy-boy look, underneath image shows Teddy-boys in a London-street scene. This look originated in the UK, where it still plays an major influence in the fashion-scene....,

Underneath, again Lanvin 2010-collection....
An de Meulenmeester RTW 2009, revealing its sober-aesthetic value

In a chronological order, the next street trend making it up to the runway was Beatnik, associated with existentialism, a philosophy-stream that originated in France, more specifically with thinkers/writers Sartre and Simone de Beauvoir (underneath the image). This style stressed the intellectual dimension of dress. 



Interpretation of the intellectual dimension of dress, by Comme des Garcons 2009

And a beautiful, mainstream version by Marc Jacobs, ready to wear 2009 collection

With the intellectual dimension openly adressed in Fashion, Music became an influence felt in Fashion trends caused by groupies got its counterpart on the runway.Music being considered the most ''intellectual'' form of art (Suzanne Langer, Philosophy in a new key) at that time....mere imagination.... The first street-trend assiociated with the music-scene making it upto runway was Mods-trend



Comme des Garcons, 2009, 



Diane von Furstenberg 


The mods where an introduction to its follower in street-style: the hippie trend. Within the music scene Janis Joplin can be considered as one of its trendsetters..... It was a critic on the values society was promoting...and a return to nature and humanity....On the Runway left image: Anna Sui, 2009. And  a revival of the hippie- values in the new Levis add below....












After the hippie-period in which it was all about make peace not war...came the provoking Punk influence in the musicscene....Sex Pistols where a notoriuos group within this scene, and still today its influence is felt....



On the Runway: Miss Sixty 2009, showing punk trend being mainstream fashionable....


And on the mens runway:Dirk Bikkembergs 2009 showing provoking power of this streetrend, in ''firing'' colours, and cutting-edge shapes....mainstream in a non-mainstream way....


By end 70's the disco trend had arrived...also expressed in other cultural sphere's as musicals and films ( ''flashdance'' and ''saturday nightfever'')...and ABBA whining the Eurovisie Songfestival...



On the Runway: Louis Vuitton Resort 2010: influence on the shoe-designs....





And a print by Anna Sui on her series of ''printed t-shirts''....




To conclude with the Hip Hop trend, introduced by hip-hop bands....


On the runway:  Dutch designer Daryl van wauw , known to incorporate all kind of street styles in his intriguing designs...



Men 2010 Bernard Wilhelm, in this collection he used reinterpreted ''ethnic-style'', hiphop can be considered as ethnic from a western point of view...

 

As far as new street trends, as a result of globalisation i believe the skirt, dress is losing its position of being a gender specific-garment....On the streets at Amsterdam Fashion Week 2009:


And on the Runway JP Gaultier:



And also on the runway...but as trendsetter...: Marc Jacobs...:


While his boyfriend is chasing streettrends with Courtney Love on another spot....: printed t-shirts...


On the runway, again designers as trendsetters themselves Gareth Pugh: