Friday, 19 June 2009

images of garments, assignment 2.1





De Boertjes,photo taken in 1938,of curator Willem Sandberg of  the Stedelijk Musem, explaining an exhibition on 100yrs of French art to visitors. 

 ...i find this image fascinating, somehow capturing everything...The visitors are dressed in typical dutch folkloristic costume made of cotton, and by that showing their status as farmers. The ''artistic/intellectual scene'' is represented by museum curator dressed in a suit (probably wool).To me this picture shows different worlds, just by the way the people in the picture are dressed, they are connected via de Artwork.Art Communicates....

Fashion is Art, Art is Fashion

The image above is considered to be Johannes Vermeer's Masterpiece , the milkmaid, painted in 1658. The reason choosing to post this painting, next to its beauty ,and showing garment and textiles, is its influence in today's fashion... The aesthetic contemplation of paintings like these become a source of inspiration for contemporary fashion, transcending the historical content of what is shown. Designers like Galliano ,in a creative act ,show their interpretation of the Golden Age paintings....The Dior Haute Couture Spring 2009  Collection....


Theatrical fabrics as velvet/silk/organza and lace are used. Main feature in the work of  Galliano is the textile/ fabric choice, especially the middle dress, creating an illusion of ironwork. The fabrics are intrinsic to the design of the dresses. This design technique/style is not new, like shown in underneath image, dated at the end 19th century. A silk evening dress by the House of Worth.
The black velvet and white satin textiles are woven ''a la disposition'', with the intent that each piece becomes a specific part of the dress. The House of Worth, was one of the most important fashion houses in Paris during 1858-1956, owned by the 2 brothers Jean-Philippe and Gaston Worth. Their dresses where made of Crepe the Chine, mousseline, lace, tule, chiffon and Jugendstil embroideries. 

Another designer inspired by painters, and considering himself as an artist was Paul Poiret. He had the painter Raoul Duffy design textiles  for him.Paul Poiret broke with the tradition, of women wearing a  corset, he introduced dresses with a high waistline, and his gowns where simple with no thrills compared the era before. He dominated the fashion scene untill 1914.
I choose below images to grasp ''the feeling the form' of his designs. These images where made 
by Paul Poiret, and show the contrast with House of Worth design-style, soft fabrics are used, and instead of the illusion of an iron look, rubber was used when the silhouette of a women was such that a ''corset''was needed. Smooth and soft draped fabrics....





Another designer breaking with tradition was Coco Chanel, introducing in 1926 ''the little black dress'',a short, collarless, longsleeved, blouse-dress. Coco Chanel was the first to make clothes out of woolen Jersey. The little black dress became an icon in the fashion world...and today its considered as a ''must have'' in each women's wardrobe

jersey wool dress

 I started this post with the dutch art influences on fashion, discussing some french fashion houses, to conclude my assignment with the Belgian.Belgian Fashion stands out according to me, one only has to look at the website of the Antwerp Fashion School, and look at the shows and work  of the different years, (not only graduation).





Antwerp Fashion Show 2009





Last but not least.... Dries van Noten, especially his use of natural textiles, and a balanced use of printed fabrics in his collections continue to inspire me for years...


Dries van Noten 2009, 




No comments:

Post a Comment