GENEALOGY OF A GARMENT: powersuits

So for this assignment, i finally choose the Power Suit

Ralph Lauren is considered to be the first designer to have introduced the Power Suit. Georgo Armani claims differently....

Although the term Power Suit might not been used before the 1980's, research througout history shows that the suit functioned, as a so called ''power'' suit, a century before its formal introduction by Ralph Lauren.

A contemporary Power Suit by Ralph Lauren. 

Oscar Wilde 1882

The image of Oscar Wilde, above was taken in New York in 1882. Oscar Wild was part of a art- movement called Aestheticism, which was a reaction upon their perceived ugliness due to Industrial Revolution. Their aim was Beauty in Art, detached from any other notion. 

Oscar Wilde was very aware of the social functions of dress, decoration not only as aesthetic purpose, but enhancing all social functions... Hence my choice of these images of him in ''Power Suit'',as the Power of the Suit has to do with the awareness of the one who wears it...and his concept of Power.

Charming power of the suit ... 1950's

Photo from the Webmaster's Collection

Army wear can be seen as the ultimate ''Power Suit''. I like the content of above image of Marlene Dietrich,in 1945, wearing pants, pushing an Army man. Showing the Zeitgeist of end 40's beginning 50's,time was ready for the first women's suit. 

In Yves Saint Laurent, 1950 introduced ''le smoking'', could be considered first real 'Power Suit'' for women. At that time focus was on gender(in)difference.Power Suit was symbol for the power of women in general.

''Almost anything can be worn by both men and women. The clothes themselves have no gender. What is considered feminine today was masculine before, and vice versa. All my career, I have tried to make men equal to women: a woman can be feminine in a pantsuit and a man very masculine in a skirt. ''
                                                                   - Jean Paul Gaultier

Power Suit icon 007,Roger Moore in 1960's 

 

As mentioned Ralph Lauren  is considered to have introduced first the Power Suit into the fashion scene in the 1980's.Characteristic where its wide shoulderpads, symbolising Power. During 1980's this was especially economical power.The Power Suit got connotated with business(men/women), and was symbol of flourishing capitalist system.

The connotation became individualistic, where as YSL Power Suit 1950 was referring to a group, Ralph  Lauren is referring to the individual wearing the suit, and by that showing his personal(economic) power. This is a different attitude and shows the individualistic&capitalistic values of modern culture.

Now we are in the 21th century, Power Suit seems to be shifting between all sort of connotations. Capitalism has failed to supply ultimate Power...crisis is the turn soil for new meanings of 1980's Power Suit....

Vision of Power Suit, by  Jean Paul Gaultier, SS 2010 mens collection